Breguet History And Models

Founded in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, Breguet is one of the oldest and most influential watchmakers in history. From inventing the tourbillon to shaping the design codes we still see today, the brand has played a key role in horological advancement for 250 years. Now part of the Swatch Group, Breguet continues to create watches that reflect the legacy of its founder while adopting modern craftsmanship and innovation.

The Legacy of Abraham-Louis Breguet

Born in 1747 in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, Abraham-Louis Breguet, now affectionately known as the “Godfather of Watchmaking,”  moved to Paris as a teenager to begin his career. After opening his own workshop on the Île de la Cité in 1775, Breguet quickly attracted an elite clientele, including members of the French royal court. Among his many achievements, Breguet is credited with inventing the tourbillon, the gong spring, the pare-chute shock protection system, and the Breguet overcoil.

His distinctive style — marked by guilloché dials, pomme hands, and fluted case bands — helped define the visual language of fine watchmaking. His clients included Marie Antoinette, Napoleon Bonaparte, and Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples. In fact, Breguet created what is considered the first wristwatch for Murat in 1812.

Key Breguet Watch Collections

Breguet’s current collections showcase a wide range of styles, from the classical to the avant-garde, but what unites them is the exceptional level of craftsmanship applied to every component. The brand’s artisans employ more than thirty different decorative and technical techniques (from hand engraving and “grand feu” enameling to traditional guilloché and gem-setting), many of which are performed on elements not even visible to the wearer. Signature details like fluted casebands, off-centered dials, and blued open-tipped “Breguet” hands are matched by intricate complications such as tourbillons, minute repeaters, and perpetual calendars. Whether inspired by aviation history or royal commissions, each Breguet watch reflects the maison’s enduring commitment to mechanical excellence and refined artistry.

Inspired by the original wristwatch A.-L. Breguet made for Queen Caroline Murat, the Reine de Naples collection is defined by its signature oval case and off-centered time display. These elegant watches are fitted with mechanical movements developed specifically for the line. Designed for women, many Reine de Naples models incorporate high jewelry elements like diamonds and mother-of-pearl, highlighting the collection's emphasis on beauty and craftsmanship.
 

A tribute to Breguet’s appointment as official chronometer-maker to the French Royal Navy in 1815, the Marine collection reinterprets the brand’s maritime legacy with a modern, sporty approach. These watches feature robust cases with prominent lugs, and often include wave-inspired guilloché patterns and luminescent details for enhanced legibility. Powered by automatic movements visible through sapphire casebacks, Marine watches are Breguet’s water-ready sports watches. 

Originally developed in the 1950s for the French Air Force, the Type XX (and its successors, the Type XXI and Type XXII) is Breguet’s aviation chronograph line. All models feature a flyback function ( an essential tool for pilots) and are powered by automatic movements with high-frequency escapements and vertical clutches. Recent updates to the collection include both civilian and military-inspired designs, complete with improved ergonomics, luminescence, and quick-release strap systems.

The Classique collection best represents the aesthetic and technical heritage of A.-L. Breguet. These watches showcase traditional craftsmanship, such as hand-guilloché dials, blued Breguet hands, and enamel work. The collection ranges from ultra-thin time-only pieces to highly complicated models with tourbillons, perpetual calendars, or minute repeaters. Signature design elements like fluted case bands, welded lugs, and the secret Breguet signature ensure continuity with the brand’s design origins.

Launched in 2005, the Tradition collection pays tribute to Breguet's early souscription (subscription) watches by exposing the mechanical architecture on the dial side. Featuring symmetrical layouts and off-center dials, Tradition watches give the wearer a watchmaker's-eye view of the movement. These models highlight techniques like manual anglage, grenaille finishing, and vintage-inspired winding systems, all executed with modern precision. The result is a rare combination of historic reference and contemporary appeal.

The Héritage line is marked by its distinctive tonneau-shaped cases, bringing together classic Breguet detailing with an unconventional form. These watches often feature hand-engraved dials, open-tipped hands, and fluted casebands, maintaining the Maison’s core design traits while offering a bolder visual identity. Although less prominent than other Breguet lines, Héritage models appeal to collectors looking for something out of the ordinary.

Pre-Owned Breguet Watches at Gray & Sons

From royal commissions to aviation instruments, Breguet has influenced virtually every chapter of watchmaking history. The brand’s current collections reflect this wide-ranging legacy, each offering a different perspective on A.-L. Breguet’s enduring contributions. The elegance of the Reine de Naples, functionality of the Type XX, historical ties of the Tradition and Classique lines, and mechanical mastery of complicated models all speak to Breguet’s celebration of both innovation and tradition.

For collectors and enthusiasts seeking exceptional value, pre-owned Breguet watches offer an opportunity to own a piece of horological history at a more accessible price point. From discontinued models to barely worn examples of current references, the second-hand Breguet market includes a wide range of styles and complications.

At Gray & Sons, our selection of used Breguet timepieces is carefully curated, with each watch authenticated, serviced, and restored in-house by our master watchmakers. Whether you’re looking for a vintage Breguet dress watch or a modern tourbillon from the Tradition collection, buying a pre-owned Breguet watch from Gray & Sons means investing in quality, heritage, and craftsmanship, all backed by trusted expertise and personalized service.