The History of the Cartier Panthère Watch

Few designs capture Cartier’s combination of jewelry and watchmaking quite like the Panthère. Introduced in 1983, the watch quickly became a symbol of effortless glamour, defined by its slim profile, fluid bracelet, and unmistakable Cartier dial. It was worn everywhere, from red carpets to city streets, and remained a fixture of 1980s and 1990s style until the collection was discontinued in the early 2000s. Cartier revived the Panthère in 2017, staying faithful to the original formula while updating the construction for modern wear. Today, the Panthère stands as one of Cartier’s most recognizable creations and a cornerstone of the brand’s contemporary catalog.

 

The Panther Symbol and Origins

Long before the Panthère became a watch collection, the panther was one of Cartier’s defining symbols. The motif first appeared in 1914, when Louis Cartier commissioned illustrator George Barbier to create the “Lady With a Panther” artwork for a jewelry exhibition invitation. That same year, Cartier debuted a wristwatch accented with an onyx-and-diamond panther pattern, establishing the animal as a house emblem.

 

When Cartier introduced the Panthère watch in 1983, the name referenced not a literal depiction of the cat but the brick-link bracelet that moved with the same grace and fluidity. The result was a timepiece that felt as much like jewelry as a watch, which would become a concept that would ultimately define the line.

 

Design Characteristics of the Panthère

At its core, the Panthère is defined by a set of unmistakable Cartier design cues: a square case, a matching square bezel punctuated by exposed screws, and a classic Cartier dial with Roman numerals, a rail-track minute ring, and blue sword-shaped hands. Of course there are variations — particularly in dial styles — but generally speaking, this design foundation applies to most Cartier Panthere watches.

 

The faceted crown set with a cabochon stone adds another signature touch, but the real hallmark of the Panthère is the bracelet. Made of supple, tightly articulated five-link rows, it drapes around the wrist with the same fluidity that inspired its name. Cartier now offers the bracelet is several variations including a single wrap, double wrap, or even triple wrap.

While the squared silhouette and screw-set bezel echo the Santos, the Panthère has a distinctly different personality thanks in large part to that bracelet design. Where the Santos leans sportier and more architectural, the Panthère is designed as a true jewelry watch — slim, smooth, and elegant, with an emphasis on comfort and movement. This combination of refined details and bracelet-first design is what gives the Cartier Panthère watch its enduring appeal.

 

First Generation Cartier Panthère Collection (1983 to 2004)

The first generation of the Panthère, produced from 1983 to 2004, became one of the defining watches of its era. Cartier offered a wide size range (Mini, Small, Medium, Large, and Jumbo) with smaller versions marketed to women and the Medium and Jumbo positioned as unisex or men’s styles. Nearly all models used quartz movements, allowing Cartier to keep cases thin and lightweight, a key factor in the watch’s popularity.

 

During the 1980s and 1990s, the Panthère became synonymous with luxury, glamour, and the fashion-forward culture of the time. Two-tone steel-and-yellow-gold models were especially popular, as were full yellow-gold references that matched the decade’s love of bolder jewelry. Cartier expanded the line extensively, introducing everything from steel entry-level pieces to high-jewelry versions set with diamonds or fitted with hardstone dials in malachite, lapis, or onyx.

 

Some offshoots added even more personality to the collection. The Panthère Ruban transformed the concept into a wide, cuff-like bracelet watch, while the Panthère Cougar swapped the square case for a round one (but retained the screw-set bezel and classic Cartier dial). Together, these variations helped the Panthère become the “It watch” of its time. A glamorous, instantly recognizable symbol of 1980s and 1990s style.

 

Cartier Panthere Revival (2017 to Present)

After more than a decade out of production, Cartier revived the Panthère collection at SIHH 2017, bringing one of its most recognizable designs back into the spotlight. The relaunch stayed true to the original formula but introduced updated materials, refined proportions, and a much-improved bracelet construction. Cartier debuted the modern Panthère in three core sizes (Mini, Small, and Medium), each powered by a quartz movement to preserve the watch’s slim profile and effortless wearability.

 

The material options expanded significantly compared to the vintage era. In addition to steel, yellow gold, and two-tone steel-and-gold, Cartier added rose gold and steel-and-rose-gold combinations, along with an array of diamond-set references. The bracelet, still the defining feature of the Panthère, gained more substantial links and a sleeker clasp system, giving it a slightly more luxurious feel while retaining the fluid drape that made the original so beloved.

Cartier has also introduced creative variations that push the Panthère further into jewelry-watch territory. Double- and triple-loop versions wrap around the wrist like layered bracelets, while cuff-style models present a wider, more sculptural look. More recently, Cartier added a range of rich dial colors and gem-set variations, illustrating how the Panthère continues to evolve while maintaining its unmistakable identity.

 

Buying Pre-Owned Cartier Panthère Watches At Gray & Sons

Today, the Panthère remains one of Cartier’s most recognizable designs, prized for its comfort, versatility, and unmistakable jewelry-watch character. Its continued popularity means both vintage and modern versions enjoy steady demand, giving collectors an unusually wide range of choices — from 1980s two-tone icons and rare stone-dial pieces to the refreshed post-2017 models with updated bracelets and new metal combinations. Because the design has changed very little across generations, pre-owned Panthère watches offer exceptional value.

 

The pre-owned market is also where some of the most interesting Panthère variations appear, including discontinued sizes, early Jumbos, Ruban and Cougar models, and limited dial executions.

At Gray & Sons, every pre-owned Cartier Panthère watch is authenticated, fully serviced, and restored by expert watchmakers, ensuring it arrives in top condition. For collectors, buying pre-owned Cartier is not only practical but it also opens the door to decades of Panthère history in one of the brand’s most enduring designs.